Background:
It wasn't till about 1800 that
ruby and sapphire were recognized
to be of the same mineral. Ruby
& Sapphire have a lot in
common. They are both of the
same corundum mineral, and they
both have the same physical
properties. Color is the distinguishing
factor. Rubies are red and sapphires
could be blue, white, pink,
yellow, green, orange, purple,
or black (sapphires other than
blue are called "fancy
colors"). Rubies and sapphires
are harder than all other gems
except diamonds. Their superior
hardness combined with the lack
of cleavage makes them very
durable and also valuable for
industrial purposes. They have
been produced synthetically
so they can be used as jewel
bearings in watches, tips in
ball-point pins, laser windows,
stylus for record players, and
meters & aircraft instruments.
Chemical Formula:
Al2O3
- Aluminum Oxide
Species:
Corundum
Specific Gravity:
3.95-4.05
Hardness:
9
Refractive
Index (RI):
1.76-1.78
Birthstone for:
July, and 15th & 40th wedding
anniversary stone
Color(s):
Reds to pinks
Where Mined:
Primary sources in Burma, Thailand,
Cambodia, Vietnam, Madagascar,
Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sri Lanka,
and India.
Enhancements:
Usually heat-treated to improve
color and appearance. Commonly
infilled.
Care:
Normal wear is fine. Can withstand
ultrasonic and steam cleaning.
Pricing:
Rubies are a precious gem and
can be as expensive as a diamond.
Large rubies have sold for as
much as $200,000 per carat,
but good rubies with inclusions
in the 1ct. range are available
for $3,000-$4,000 per carat.
Also lower quality opaque rubies
are available as low as $10
per carat (not recommended).
It is noted that a premium may
be charged if a high grade stone
originates from Mogok or shows
no evidence of heat treatment.
Notes:
Rubies mined from different
places often have different
colors. Burmese rubies (Mogok
area of Myanmar) are usually
richer in color and have some
pink overtones versus the darker
Thai rubies. Sri Lankan rubies
can tend toward pastel pinks.
All should be priced differently.
Look for:
Color. Color is the most important
factor in shopping. Deep rich
reds are the most prized, though
light shades into pinks are
fun, but should be less expensive.
Rubies are usually eye clean
of any inclusions, though better
colors with inclusions that
are barely noticeable are fine.
Avoid opaque or heavily included
stones.
Star rubies:
These are cabochon cut stones
showing bands of reflected light
crossing each other in the center
creating a star. This effect
is called "asterism".
The half of a band that starts
from the center of the stone
and goes to the edge is called
a "ray". Star gems
generally exhibit from four
to twelve rays. Star sapphire
and star rubies are the best
known star gems. Other gems
that can display a star include
beryl, garnet, quartz, and spinel.
Most natural star sapphires
are normally more pale than
natural faceted sapphires, and
their stars are not as well
defined as those of lab-grown
(synthetic) stones. Star rubies
often have a maroon rather than
red color and their stars tend
to be indistinctive and imperfect.
Your main concern when judging
a star stone
should be:
Is it easy to see
the star when you look at the
stone under a single, direct
light source such as a penlight
or light bulb?
Special Note:
Consider "Created"
rubies which are of the same
chemical composition as natural
ones, but are "lab grown"
versus mined from the ground.
These created gems are available
in brilliant colors and very
clean making them durable and
affordable. See Chatham Created
Rubies in jewelplus.com online
products catalog.
Background:
It wasn't till about 1800 that
ruby and sapphire were recognized
to be of the same mineral. Ruby
& Sapphire have a lot in
common. They are both of the
same corundum mineral, and they
both have the same physical
properties. Color is the distinguishing
factor. Rubies are red and sapphires
could be blue, white, pink,
yellow, green, orange, purple,
or black (sapphires other than
blue are called "fancy
colors"). Rubies and sapphires
are harder than all other gems
except diamonds. Their superior
hardness combined with the lack
of cleavage makes them very
durable and also valuable for
industrial purposes. They have
been produced synthetically
so they can be used as jewel
bearings in watches, tips in
ball-point pins, laser windows,
stylus for record players, and
meters & aircraft instruments.
Chemical Formula:
Al2O3
- Aluminum Oxide
Species:
Corundum
Specific Gravity:
3.95-4.05
Hardness:
9
Refractive Index (RI):
1.76-1.78
Birthstone for:
September, and 5th & 45th
wedding anniversary stone
Color(s):
Mostly blue. Fancy sapphires
include any color except blue,
such as: white, pink, yellow,
green, orange, purple, or black
. There are even blue to purple
color change sapphires.
Where Mined:
Primary sources in Madagascar,
Burma, Sri Lanka, Cambodia,
Australia, and the USA.
Enhancements:
Usually heat-treated to produce,
intensify or lighten color and
improve uniformity.
Care:
Wear away! Can withstand ultrasonic
and steam cleaning.
Pricing:
Dark stones are less expensive.
The price increases as they
lighten toward deep royal blue.
Top quality Kashmir sapphires
can wholesale for over $20,000
per carat. Good blue sapphires
in the 1ct. range are available
for $1000-$2000 per carat retail.
Pale, blackish or grayish stones
cost the least. The lowest priced
stones often come from Australia
because they tend to be overly
dark and have a low transparency.
Notes:
A great wearing everyday gem.
Look for:
Dark sapphires from Thailand
can look black when set. Choose
a shade that lets you see blue.
Ceylon sapphires (from Sri Lanka)
have some royal blue shades
that are fabulous. Avoid grayish
overtones and deep native cuts
with heavy bottoms.
Pink Sapphires:
This is the most highly prized
of all the fancy color sapphires.
High quality pink sapphires
can cost several thousand dollars
per carat.
White Sapphire:
This sapphire is made by heat-treating
light colored sapphires. White
sapphires are being recognized
as a much more affordable alternative
to diamonds.
Other Fancy color sapphires:
Yellow, green, orange, or purple
sapphires are mostly mined in
East Africa, Sri Lanka, Thailand,
and Montana. A high percentage
of green sapphire is found in
Australia. Of these four sapphire
colors, orange is the most valued;
green is typically the lowest
priced; and yellow is usually
the most readily available.
Star sapphires:
These are cabochon cut stones
showing bands of reflected light
crossing each other in the center
creating a star. This effect
is called "asterism".
The half of a band that starts
from the center of the stone
and goes to the edge is called
a "ray". Star gems
generally exhibit from four
to twelve rays. Star sapphire
and star rubies are the best
known star gems. Other gems
that can display a star include
beryl, garnet, quartz, and spinel.
Most natural star sapphires
are normally more pale than
natural faceted sapphires, and
their stars are not as well
defined as those of lab-grown
(synthetic) stones. Star rubies
often have a maroon rather than
red color and their stars tend
to be indistinctive and imperfect.
Your main concern when judging
a star stone should be: is it
easy to see the star when you
look at the stone under a single,
direct light source such as
a penlight or light bulb?
Special Note:
Consider "Created"
sapphires which are of the same
chemical composition as natural
ones, but are "lab grown"
versus mined from the ground.
These created gems are available
in brilliant colors and very
clean making them durable and
affordable. See Chatham Created
Rubies in jewelplus.com online
products catalog.
Background:
Tanzanite was discovered in
the 1960's in the foothills
of Africa's Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Later, Henry Platt, vice president
and director of Tiffany's, named
the stone after its country
of origin, Tanzania. Tanzanite
is indeed one of the most popular
gems in the market. By just
looking at it you can't help
but fall in love with it.From
one angle it may display a rich
blue color, from another it
can look purple to the eye.
Along with the blue/purple,
there may also be flashes of
red, green, yellow, orange,
or brown. What's more, tanzanite
can appear one color indoors
and another outdoors. Also a
high clarity and transparency
add to its beauty.
Chemical Formula:
CaAl3(SiO4)3(OH)
- Calcium aluminum hydroxysilicate
Species:
Zoisite
Specific Gravity:
3.20-3.40
Hardness:
6-7
Refractive Index (RI):
1.69-1.70
Birthstone for:
24th wedding anniversary
stone
Color(s):
Rich purple blues
Where Mined:
Tanzania in Africa
Enhancements:
Usually heat-treated to intensify
the color and /or eliminate
brown, gray, or green.
Care:
Avoid temperature changes (oven
to the sink or hot tub to the
pool), and ultrasonic cleaners.
Pricing:
Moderately inexpensive, but
can be expensive for large and/or
brilliant stones with strong
blue color change. You can find
high quality , deep blue tanzanite
with purple overtones for less
than $1,200 per carat retail.
Attractive light lavender tanzanite
is available for less than $500
per carat retail.
Notes:
Becoming more expensive
Look for:
Good color change. Avoid grayish
blues.
Background:
Most topaz is light brown when
mined and then turns colorless
after exposure to light or low
heat. Otherwise it tends to
be pale blue.
Chemical Formula:
Al2(F,OH)2SiO4
- aluminum fluorohydroxysilicate
Species:
Topaz
Specific Gravity:
3.50-3.57
Hardness:
8
Refractive Index (RI):
1.61-1.64
Birthstone for:
November, and 23rd wedding anniversary
stone
Color(s):
Brown, yellow, orange, sherry,
red and pink topaz mined in
Brazil and Sri Lanka. Pink topaz
is found in Pakistan and Russia.
Blue topaz starts out pale and
is irradiated to cause color.
Where Mined:
The world's largest producer
of topaz is the state of Minas
Gerais in Brazil. For almost
300 years, its Ouro Preto district
has supplied the world with
yellow, orange, and pink topaz.
Other sources includes the USA,
Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Russia,
Germany, Mexico, Australia,
and Myanmar.
Enhancements: Blue
topaz is usually irradiated
to produce blue.
Yellow/orange
is occasionally irradiated to
intensify the color.
Pink/red
is usually heated to bring out
the color.
Green
is usually irradiated to produce
a greener color.
Care:
Avoid long exposure to sunlight
(and tanning beds) since it
will cause the color to fade.
Pricing:
Yellow, orange, and pink topaz
are highly regarded. High quality
golden yellow or orange topaz
when intensely colored and has
a reddish or pink overtones,
is called "imperial topaz"
and may retail from about $200
to over $2,000 per carat.
Blue topaz which is produced
by irradiation and then heating,
can look like a fine aquamarine,
but most is a stronger blue.
Ever since the market was flooded
with blue topaz, its price has
dropped to levels below $20
per carat. Colorless topaz which
is also used to simulate diamonds,
is the cheapest and most plentiful
topaz.
Look for:
Blue topaz should always be
clean. Other colors should be
clean as well, but small inclusions
are acceptable.
Background:
No other gemstone offers a wider
variety of colors than tourmaline.
Besides being found in every
color of the rainbow, tourmaline
may also be multi-colored in
one piece. The origin of tourmaline
is uncertain. It wasn't until
the early 18th century that
tourmaline was recognized as
a distinct gemstone.
Chemical Formula:
(NaKCa)(FeLiMgMnAl)3(AlFeCrV)6B3Si6O27(O,OH,F)4
Species:
Mineral - Albaite, dravite,
chrome dravite, schorl
Specific Gravity:
3.00-3.26
Hardness:
7-7 1/2
Refractive Index (RI):
1.62-1.65
Birthstone for:
Alternate birthstone of October,
and 8th wedding anniversary
stone
Color(s):
Virtually every color of the
rainbow and combinations of
two or three colors. Bicolor
and tricolor tourmalines, with
bands of colors are often seen.
Where Mined: Brazil, Tanzania,
Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique,
Namibia, Afghanistan, Pakistan,
Sri Lanka, and California and
Maine in the United States.
Enhancements:
Green, blue is commonly heated
to improve color and occasionally
oiled and infilled.
Pink, red, and purple are occasionally
heated to improve color, commonly
irradiated to intensify the
color, occasionally dyed and
infilled.
Many colors are heated to improve
color intensity. A few are filled
with a resin to smooth out surface
cavities.
Care:
Avoid temperature changes, ultrasonic
cleaners and steam cleaning.
Notes:
Pink tourmaline almost always
contains eye visible inclusions.
Paraiba tourmaline was discovered
only recently in 1989 in Brazil
and are the only blue tourmalines
around.
Pricing:
Blue tourmaline (or paraiba
tourmaline) is the rarest and
most expensive. In its finest
qualities, it has wholesaled
for over $5,000 per carat.
Top quality green tourmaline
(or chrome tourmaline) can retail
for as much as $2,000 per carat.
However most green tourmaline,
is quite affordable, with retail
prices ranging from $20 per
carat for low quality stones
to $400 per carat for better
quality stones.
Pink or red tourmaline (also
called rubellite) which is clean,
with intense red can retail
for over $1,000 per carat.
Orange, and yellow tourmalines
may retail for about $30 to
$400 per carat. Brown tourmaline
tends to be less expensive.
Multi-colored tourmalines which
have green and pink slices of
crystal and have concentric
color banding are called "watermelon
tourmaline" and retail
for about $30 to $600 per carat.
Cat's eye tourmaline retail
for about $30 to $700 per carat.
Look for:
Since tourmaline is generally
an included gemstone, you would
want to minimize internal imperfections
and look for evenness of color.
Background:
Turquoise is the national gemstone
of Iran, where it has decorated
thrones and the attire of high
officials. The best turquoise
occurs in the northeast of Iran
near Nishapur where it has been
mined for over 3000 years. The
material there is typically
more stable and blue than that
of other sources.
Chemical Formula:
CuAl6(PO4)4(OH)8*5H20
- Hydrated copper aluminum phosphate
Species:
Turquoise
Specific Gravity:
2.60-2.85
Hardness:
5-6
Refractive Index (RI):
1.61-1.65
Birthstone for:
December, and 11th wedding anniversary
stone
Color(s):
Sky blue, blue-green and apple-green.
Where Mined:
Iran, USA and China.
Enhancements:
To prevent discoloration and
increase durability, turquoise
could be treated with a plastic
substance. To improve color,
a colorant may be added. Turquoise
maybe impregnated with wax to
deepen the color and decrease
porosity.
Care:
May be discolored by perspiration,
perfume, hair spray, cosmetics,
lotions, heavy liquids, soap,
and ultrasonic cleaning solutions.
It dissolves very slowly in
HCL.
Notes:
Natural turquoise has stability
problems. If it is not from
Iran and it is not treated,
it may turn green, white, or
occasionally brown within a
year after it is mined. With
intense heat it can fracture,
shatter, crackle or discolor.
Pricing:
The most highly valued turquoise
is untreated and dense and has
an even, intense sky-blue color.
usually this type of gem is
from Iran. The value is reduced
if the color is green or pale
or if inclusions or lines called
"spider webbing" are
present. prices can range from
$1 a stone to a few hundred
dollars for a top quality, untreated
cabochon.
Background:
Zircon is not the same as cubic
zirconia (CZ). Zircon is a natural
gemstone with exceptional brilliance.
Cubic zirconia is a synthetic
stone with a different chemical
composition. When colorless
and well-cut both stones resemble
diamonds. Before CZ was introduced
in the market in 1976, heat-treated,
colorless zircon was widely
used as a diamond imitation.
Zircon comes in almost every
color of the spectrum.
Chemical Formula:
CZrSiO4 - Zirconium
Silicate
Species:
Zircon
Specific Gravity:
3.90-4.80
Hardness:
6-7 1/2
Refractive Index (RI):
1.78-2.01
Birthstone for:
Alternate birthstone for December
Color(s):
Blue is the most common, but
zircon is also available in
green, dark red, yellow, brown,
and orange.
Where Mined:
Three main sources are: Cambodia,
Sri Lanka, Thailand. Also found
in Myanmar, Australia, Tanzania,
France, and Vietnam. Bangkok
is the world's cutting and marketing
center for zircon.
Enhancements:
Yellows are sometimes heated
to improve color. Blues, reds
and clear are always heated
to remove browns and intensify
the main color.
Care:
Avoid abrasives and strong exposure
to sunlight (and tanning beds)
as they can cause fading.
Pricing:
Blue zircon often resembles
aquamarine and blue topaz, but
has more fire and brilliance
and retails anywhere from $20
to $500 per carat.
Look
for:
Most are pastel in color, but
look for bright blues.
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